This young boutique champagne producer is blessed with some of the most desirable vineyard land in the world: a little under three hectares of Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger, a grand cru of the Côte des Blancs famous for its exquisite Chardonnay and favoured by the likes of Krug and Salon. So far so classic – but there is an unusual side to the story. Encry is, uniquely, run by Italians. Environmental engineer Enrico Baldin was hired to do some vineyard work by a Champagne grower, fell in love with the region, and ended up starting his own label with his wife Nadia. With some seemingly monumental regulatory hurdles now behind them, the Italian couple are producing a quintessentially Côte des Blancs style of champagne: refined, nervy, focused, yet will real depth and vinosity. This is an unexpected but utterly delightful find.