Many Rhône producers have enjoyed a renaissance in the last decade, and none more so than Delas. The company has history (back to 1836) and land (twelve prime hectares, including La Landonne and Les Bessards). Since 1997,it has also had a winemaker capable of realising all that potential. Jacques Grange graduated from Dijon, worked forstar consultant Jean-Luc Colombo and raised the quality at Chapoutier before arriving at Delas. Under his influencea more modern, ‘boutique’ approach has been taken: there is more (though not excessive) new wood in evidence,fining and filtration have been minimised, cold soaks and lees contact have boosted fruit intensity and textural richness.The wines now combine clarity of flavour with hedonistic appeal – surely the ultimate goal for a Rhône producer.